When you keep chickens, it is very easy to fall into the treat trap. A little handful of corn here, a few kitchen scraps there, a grape because they looked at you with those beady little “surely you love me” eyes. Before you know it, your hens have trained you beautifully and are waiting by the run door like tiny feathered snack inspectors.
But while treats are one of the joys of chicken keeping, too many can cause problems. Chickens need the right balance of food, exercise, enrichment and routine to stay healthy. A hen carrying too much weight may not look dramatically different at first, especially under all those fluffy feathers, but excess fat can affect laying, mobility and general wellbeing.
So, if you have found yourself wondering “how to stop my chickens getting fat”, the answer is usually not about putting them on a dramatic diet. It is about feeding the right main food, keeping treats sensible and making sure your flock has plenty to do.
Do Chickens Get Fat?
Yes, chickens can get fat. It is more common than many people realise, partly because chickens are naturally very good at grazing throughout the day. They will free feed much like cows, gently picking at their feed as they go about their business. This is normal and healthy when the feed is right.
The problem usually starts when chickens are given too many extras, especially corn, scraps and high-calorie treats. Hens should always have access to suitable pellet feed for their age and stage of life, but treats should only make up a small part of the diet. As a general guide, treats should be no more than 10 to 20% maximum of what they eat.
If hens are fed mainly on scraps and corn, rather than a balanced pellet feed, they can hold onto too much fat. This can happen even if they still seem active and happy. Chickens are clever little opportunists and, given the choice, many will happily fill up on their favourite treats before bothering with their proper dinner. Rather like children at a birthday party buffet, really.
Start With The Right Chicken Feed
The easiest way to help prevent chickens from getting overweight is to make sure their main food is correct. Your chicken’s feeder should always have feed in it, but that feed should be the recommended pellet feed for the age of hen you have.
For most adult laying hens, this means good-quality layers’ pellets. These are designed to give hens the right balance of protein, energy, vitamins and minerals to support healthy laying and everyday wellbeing. Younger birds may need growers or rearer pellets, depending on their age, while chicks need chick crumb.
The important thing is not just that your chickens are fed, but that they are fed the right thing. A bowl full of mixed corn might make you very popular in the run, but it is not a complete diet. Corn is useful as a treat, especially in colder weather when offered sensibly, but it should not replace pellets.
Think of pellets as the proper meal and treats as the biscuit tin. Lovely in small amounts, not so lovely as the foundation of everyone’s diet.
Do Not Over Treat
This is important. Do not over treat your pet chickens.
We know. It is very hard when they come running over, clucking away, acting like they have not eaten since the beginning of time. But chickens are excellent performers, and many would happily convince you that a second breakfast, third lunch and pre-bedtime corn shower are all essential parts of poultry care.
Treats should only make up 10 to 20% maximum of their diet. For some flocks, especially those that are already a bit chunky, less may be better. The majority of their nutrition should come from the correct pellet feed.
Try to avoid throwing treats in every time you visit the run. If your hens learn that every appearance from a human means food, they will expect it every time. Instead, use treats more purposefully. Offer a small amount as enrichment, scatter a little to encourage natural foraging or save them for training, handling or getting everyone safely back into the run.
Be Careful With Corn
Mixed corn is one of the most common chicken treats, and most hens absolutely love it. The trouble is that corn is energy-rich, so too much can contribute to weight gain.
Corn is best offered in small amounts, usually later in the day once your hens have already eaten their pellets. If you give corn first thing in the morning, they may fill up on the tasty stuff and ignore the balanced feed they actually need.
A small scatter can be useful for encouraging natural scratching and pecking. Just do not let it become the main event.
Do Not Feed Purely On Scraps
Kitchen scraps can feel like a lovely, old-fashioned part of chicken keeping, but hens should not be fed purely on scraps. Scraps vary too much in nutrition and can be too high in calories, salt, fat or unsuitable ingredients, depending on what they are.
Feeding mostly scraps and corn can cause hens to hold onto too much fat. It can also mean they miss out on the nutrients they need from proper poultry feed. Even if your chickens seem delighted with leftovers, it does not mean those leftovers are giving them what they need.
Suitable fresh greens and safe garden treats can be offered in moderation, but they should supplement the diet, not replace it.
Encourage Natural Exercise
Chickens are not gym-goers, thankfully, because tiny treadmills would be chaos. But they do need opportunities to move, scratch, forage, flap, perch and explore.
A chicken that spends all day standing by the feeder is more likely to gain weight than one that is busy investigating the run, scratching through bedding and hopping up onto perches. Encouraging movement can make a real difference.
You can help by:
- Scattering a small amount of treats so they have to forage
- Adding perches, logs or branches to the run
- Using hanging vegetables for pecking enrichment
- Moving boredom-busting toys around
- Creating different areas in the run to explore
- Allowing supervised free-ranging where safe and suitable
A more interesting environment helps keep chickens active and mentally stimulated. It also reduces boredom, which can lead to feather pecking, squabbles and noisy “we are bored and everyone must know” behaviour.
Watch Out For Fat Around The Vent And Abdomen
Because feathers hide a lot, it can be tricky to tell whether a chicken is overweight just by looking. A bird can look fluffy rather than fat, especially breeds with heavier feathering.
A practical way to monitor condition is to gently handle your hens from time to time. Feel around the breast area. You should be able to feel the breastbone, but it should not feel sharp or overly prominent. If there is a lot of soft flesh and the bird feels heavy for her breed and size, she may be carrying extra weight.
Fat can also build internally, particularly around the abdomen. This is one reason why managing diet matters, even if the hen looks outwardly fine.
If you are concerned about a hen’s weight, laying changes, swelling, breathing, mobility or general condition, it is always sensible to seek advice from a poultry-aware vet.
Choose Treats Wisely
Not all treats are equal. Some are much richer than others, and portion size matters.
Better treat choices, in moderation, can include leafy greens, small amounts of safe vegetables, herbs and occasional fruit. Richer treats like corn, mealworms and sunflower seeds should be fed more sparingly.
Fruit can be a fun treat, but it is still sugary, so a little goes a long way. Grapes, berries and melon may go down very well, but your hens do not need a fruit platter every afternoon, however much they insist they are living a deprived life.
A good rule is to think small. A treat should be a little extra, not a second dinner.
Feed For The Age And Type Of Bird
Different chickens have different needs. Growing birds, laying hens, older hens, bantams, large breeds and ornamental breeds may not all need exactly the same amount or type of feed.
Bantams, for example, are smaller and need less than large fowl. Heavy breeds may naturally carry more body size, but that does not mean they should be overfed. Older hens that lay less may also need careful treat management, as they are not using as much energy for regular egg production.
This is why feeding the correct pellet for the age and stage of hen is so important. It gives them the right nutritional foundation before any extras are added.
Keep A Routine
Chickens do well with routine. Keep their pellet feeder topped up, offer fresh water daily and keep treats occasional and controlled.
If you have several family members feeding the hens, it is worth making sure everyone knows the treat rules. One person’s “tiny handful” plus another person’s “just a few scraps” plus someone else’s “they looked hungry” can quickly become a feast.
A shared scoop or treat pot can help. Once it is empty for the day, that is it. The hens may complain, but they will survive the terrible hardship.
Keeping Your Hens Happy and Healthy With Pipinchick
Helping chickens stay at a healthy weight is really about balance. Let them graze on the right pellet feed throughout the day, keep their feeder topped up with suitable feed for their age, and use treats as treats, not the main meal.
Chickens can get fat, especially when they are fed too much corn, too many scraps or too many rich extras. The good news is that small changes can make a big difference. Choose a suitable pellet feed, limit treats to 10 to 20% maximum of the diet, avoid feeding purely on scraps and corn, and give your hens plenty of chances to scratch, forage and keep busy.
At Pipinchick, we know that spoiling your flock is part of the fun, but the best kind of spoiling is the kind that keeps them healthy, happy and full of chickeny joy. With the right feed, sensible treats and a run full of interesting things to do, your hens can enjoy the good life without turning into round little feathered puddings.
It can be difficult to tell if your hen is overweight due to the way they store fat inside their body, there are a few things to look out for and a few guides to follow to ensure they do not get fat. You may also notice they are heavier when you pick them up or that you can no longer feel their breast bone or keel as it is also known.
Things to look out for:
Stop in egg production
Lethargy
Problems walking or moving around
Yes, absolutely, but the way the retain fat is different to us, fat in chickens will deposit in their system rather than on top of their organs, this means too much fat in a hen’s system can cause them to have lots of internal issues with their organs, including reproductive problems, liver failure and can often be fatal.
Yes, even chickens can suffer from depression, there are many causes which can be environmental, after a sudden shock or fright or even after the loss of their favourite flock mate. Signs of depression tend to include lethargy, loss of appetite and a drop or stop in egg production. Snapping a chicken out of a depression can be tricky, finding the root of the problem is often the first step to treating them, this is where some good old fashioned
Chicken Whispering can come into play, if you think your hen is depressed then please get in touch (insert email) to talk it through with our team, we can often pinpoint the issue after having had a chat and offer some guidance on how best to help.
Chicken Healthcare: How to Spot, Treat and Support Common Hen Ailments
Chickens are wonderfully social creatures, but they are also notoriously good at hiding when something’s wrong. In the wild, showing weakness makes them a target, so even the most pampered garden hens will do their best to disguise illness until they’re really struggling. That’s why regular observation and knowing what to look for are so important.
If you’re ever worried about a member of your flock, you can head to our interactive Chicken Health Checker where you can diagnose many common chicken ailments. Or you can even book a 30-minute video call with our chicken experts and ask us absolutely anything. We are here to help.
Recognising When a Chicken Is Unwell
There are a few early clues that something isn’t right.
Lethargy is one of the first. A sick hen will often appear hunched, slow to move and may stay in one spot while the rest of the flock scratches about. You might also notice a sudden lack of appetite, even when offered favourite treats.
Sneezing, coughing, or rattly breathing are signs of respiratory distress. These can indicate anything from a mild cold to a bacterial infection such as Mycoplasma. Occasionally, worm infestations like Gape Worm can cause similar symptoms.
Another tell-tale sign is a sudden drop in egg production or thin-shelled eggs. If this happens outside the usual winter laying break, it could point to a nutritional deficiency or an underlying health condition.
By understanding what each symptom means and knowing which treatments to use, you can act quickly and give your hens the best chance of recovery.
Respiratory Problems and Mycoplasma
Respiratory infections are among the most common health issues in backyard chickens. Mycoplasma in particular is widespread, and while it can’t always be completely eliminated, it can be managed successfully with early intervention.
If you notice sneezing, watery or bubbly eyes, or swollen sinuses, it’s worth isolating the affected bird and consulting your vet. Antibiotics such as Tylan are usually prescribed for confirmed Mycoplasma, but supportive care is just as important.
Products such as Agrivite Poultry Respite Tonic can help relieve respiratory distress and strengthen the immune system. This natural tonic is ideal during and after infection and is particularly useful for birds recovering from colds or damp weather exposure. Keeping the coop clean, dry and well-ventilated is also vital for preventing re-infection.
Supporting Immunity and Recovery
Even after illness has passed, your hens’ immune systems can remain low for several weeks. Phytopet Chicken Immune is a herbal tonic designed to boost natural defences and help your flock regain condition. It’s an easy addition to drinking water and is especially handy after illness, stress, or during moulting.
To maintain everyday health, Agrivite Poultry Drink provides a blend of essential vitamins and minerals that keep hens in top condition year-round. It’s particularly useful for improving appetite, feather condition, and general vitality.
Digestive Upsets and Diarrhoea
Loose droppings are common from time to time, but persistent diarrhoea can quickly dehydrate a hen and cause weakness. If your bird is showing these symptoms, Phytopet Chicken Squits is a natural remedy formulated to soothe digestive upsets. Always make sure fresh water is available and consider adding Apple Cider Vinegar to drinking water to support healthy gut flora.
Equimins Country Living Cider Apple Vinegar is an excellent choice for this, offering both antibacterial properties and respiratory benefits.
Parasites and Mite Problems
External parasites are a nuisance for any flock and can lead to restlessness, feather loss and anaemia. Regular dust bathing helps prevent infestation, but it’s also worth keeping a close eye for scaly legs or red mite activity.
For treating scaly leg mites, Barrier Scaly Leg Treatment Ointment provides relief and helps repair damaged scales. Dergall Red Mite and Scaly Leg Treatment can be used both on birds and coop surfaces to eliminate mites and prevent re-infestation.
Mites thrive in cracks, bedding and perches, so thorough cleaning and the use of a good dust bath are essential. The Scented Sands Complete Poultry Dust Bath Kit gives your hens everything they need to keep feathers clean and skin healthy while naturally deterring mites.
Frostbite and Skin Protection
Cold weather can cause frostbite, especially on combs and wattles. Battles Comb and Wattle Protector creates a protective barrier, keeping sensitive skin safe from frost and minor abrasions.
Aloe Vera First Aid Gel is another useful item to keep in your poultry cupboard. It soothes cuts, scratches and pecking injuries, encouraging quick healing without irritation. For deeper wounds or areas affected by feather pecking, Equimins Purple Wound Spray offers antibacterial protection and helps prevent further pecking by disguising the wound’s appearance.
Worms and Internal Parasites
Internal worms can lead to weight loss, reduced egg production and general malaise. While regular worm counts or faecal testing are the best way to monitor infestation, many keepers use herbal support as a preventive measure. Phytopet Chicken Wormwood is a natural supplement traditionally used to discourage internal parasites and maintain digestive balance.
If you prefer a more natural approach to prevention, adding garlic and herbs to feed can help deter worms and strengthen immunity. Natures Grub Garlic, Herb and Seaweed Supplement combines all three, improving both gut health and egg quality.
Feeding for Strength, Shell Quality and Condition
Chickens need a balanced diet with adequate calcium and vitamin D to produce strong eggshells. Deficiency can result in thin or misshapen eggs and even soft-shells. Agrivite Calcium Vitamin D Liquid Tonic and Zolcal-D Calcium Vitamin D Tonic are both effective options for boosting calcium absorption and supporting healthy bones and shell formation.
For an overall boost, Pipinchick Multi Vitamin offers a broad spectrum of nutrients to keep your flock healthy through the year, particularly during stress, moulting, or recovery periods.
Feather condition and joint health can also benefit from added oils. Nature's Grub Omega Oil with Herbs is a great supplement for glossy feathers and joint support, while Nature's Grub Spice Blend and Turbo Boost Feed Supplement aid digestion, metabolism and vitality.
Natural Supplements for Everyday Wellbeing
Equimins Pure Seaweed Supplement is rich in trace minerals that enhance feather strength and colour. Combined with good diet and proper care, it helps keep birds looking bright and healthy.
Protein-rich treats such as Live Calci Worms, Mario Worms and Mealworms are also an excellent addition. They’re ideal for recovery after illness or during winter when natural foraging is limited.
Preventing Disease and Promoting Hygiene
Biosecurity plays a big role in poultry health. The Avian Flu Prevention Kit includes cleaning and disinfecting products designed to minimise the risk of infection spreading. Regular cleaning of feeders, perches and bedding areas will reduce the likelihood of bacteria and parasites taking hold.
Dust baths, good ventilation and avoiding overcrowding are simple but highly effective steps in maintaining a healthy flock.
Need Help Diagnosing a Problem?
If you’re ever unsure what’s wrong, use Pipinchick’s online Chicken Health Checker or book a consultation through the Ring Me ASAP service to speak directly with one of our experienced chicken keepers.
Caring for Your Flock with Pipinchick
Healthy hens are happy hens. By learning to recognise symptoms early and using the right products to support recovery, you can keep your flock thriving all year round. From respiratory tonics to wound sprays, supplements and natural mite control, Pipinchick’s carefully chosen chicken healthcare range has everything you need to care for your hens with confidence.
Browse our full collection of chicken healthcare products to keep your flock fit, healthy and clucking through every season.
Yes, absolutely, we recommend offering your hens a good quality multi vitamin all through the winter, and then bi weekly during the warmer months. Pipinchick have their own brand, specifically created to ensure they maintain good amounts of B12 in their diet and it is water soluble, vitamin B12 is essential for good brain cognitive function and can prevent conditions such as Wry Neck or Star Gazing.
Your chickens will have different nutritional needs during different times in their lives:
Feather Moulting.
During their moult they will be very deficient in minerals and proteins, we recommend offering Agrivite Poultry Drink during this time as it is full of additional minerals such as iron, and also offer seeds, live grubs and larvae as a treat to help keep them topped up on protein, new feathers are made up of 100% protein so whilst re growing they will use all their natural protein stores.
Calcium and Vitamin D.
This is so important if your hens are having periods where they are struggling to lay, have just come into lay or are a little older in their lives and need the extra help to lay. Hens will use a lot of calcium to create eggs, if they do not have enough in their system they will take calcium form their own bones, this can cause long term difficulties laying, egg binding and even brittle bones. We recommend as a basic every day tonic Agrivite Feather, Shell and Bone which is water soluble, and for times of egg binding or sever deficiency we recommend Zolcal D. Vitamin D is essential as without vitamin D your hens cannot absorb calcium so always makes sure when offering a calcium supplement it also has vitamin D. You can also supplement their vitamin D by offering dried chopped mushrooms (human safe).
Broody hens.
If you have bantams or pure breeds then you will probably have had broody hens, broody hens will sit on an empty nest this can last for anything up to 3 months, they will get up to eat and drink once or twice a day but as you can imagine during this time they will become quite deficient in many essential nutrients including, fat, vitamins and minerals. We recommend offering broodies a high calorie treat if they have been broody for a prolonged
period, we have our own Forager Broody Boost, which is packed full of essential vitamins, minerals and has lots of extra fat, we also recommend having a good quality multi vitamin in the water for all your hens but especially during times of broodiness.
Mite rescue.
If your hens have had a mite infestation you may notice they have pale combes and wattles and seem lethargic, this is due to them being deficient in minerals in particular iron, mites will eat your chickens blood and for sever infestations your hens will be lacking in iron and other minerals which can lead to anaemia.
For more information on common health problems please go to our chicken health care page.
If you're worried in minus temperatures, you can insulate their coops, we recommend using a thick layer of cardboard to line the floor, then cover with a thick packed layer of either wood shavings or treated straw bedding such as Dengi, a nice layer about 5 inches thick should be sufficient. Some keepers will also put an insulated picnic blanket over the coop roof, and some even pop in a hot water bottle wrapped in a towel at bedtime.
Offering high calorie treats in the afternoon can also help keep their metabolisms burning through the night which keeps them warm, things such as warm porridge made with water, sweet corn or lovely dried oat and corn mixes are all good to offer.
Roundworms, hairworms, tapeworms, caecal worms and gapeworms are the most common. They live in the gut or respiratory tracts of the birds. They can be picked up from free-ranging or even inside the coop if the coop is not kept clean and disinfected regularly. The most common way for the worms to spread is through the droppings of the chickens of from wild birds.
Regular worming is advised, we recommend once every 4 months with Flubenvet, but ongoing prevention is also key, keeping a clean and disinfected area, keeping wild birds away from your chicken run (pigeon poop in particular can have many parasites and bacteria), and using herbal preventatives such as Verm-X and Phytopet Wormwod. Some people prefer to only treat once they have noticed an infestation, this is entirely up to you, but we recommend regular treatments to be safe as you may not always notice the infestation.
There are many good natural preventatives for worming your chickens from Verm-X to Phytopet and even some feed will have these in already, you can use garlic cloves in their water as garlic is a natural worm preventative, however, we still recommend a good medicated worming treatment once every 4 months to be sure. It is not always easy to tell if your hens have worms and although natural preventatives can work well, they are not 100%
guaranteed to stop an infestation. We recommend Flubenvet as being the best medicated worming powder you can buy online.